The Valley of San Vito

San Vito and the Dolomiti Part I


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Back in the Alps for what is becoming an annual tradition. If you have been following me, you may know that last year I spent a week up and down the mountains around San Martino de Castrozza in the region of Trentino. You can read about my adventures here, here and here.

This year, we packed the car with friends and supplies and headed back to the Alps, this time to a different part which was as beautiful and as challenging.

This year’s adventure takes place in the valley of San Vito di Cadore, next to the very famous Cortina D’Ampezzo at the very heart of the Dolomiti.

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Before we start exploring , let me tell you a little more about San Vito,  a small town of about 1200 inhabitants, full of wooden houses and known for its cakes (the best in the valley and beyond), hot chocolate and  and apertivo. As small as it is and as unknown to the rest of world, I was simply not prepared and definitely did not expect such a display of quality and uniqueness. Discovering this place is one of the many  benefits of going native for a while.

I stayed in T’s house, who was very excited about showing me “his mountains”. The chalet is a very typical alpine hut with wooden floors, rustic decor  and the best view of the peaks above it.

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Our days were spent in between great food, great wine and long walks up and down the mountains when the weather allowed it.

Our first day started off rather wet and ideal to explore the little town. A nice cup of coffee in the main bar of the village, a walk down to it’s small lake, and a quick visit to see the deers.

Lunchtime was approaching so we picked up our fresh handmade “Casunziei”, a special type of beetroot stuffed pasta. We ordered ours from “Il Bocconcino”, a small shop located in the middle of the village which makes the best pasta fresca. A quick call and your pasta will be ready in a couple of hours!

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  Considered one of the specialties of the valley of San Vito, beetroot tortelli were definitely something to try.

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 Boil them for 2 minutes, add butter, poppy seeds, (parmesan for the greedy ones) and you get a traditional plate of mountain style tortelli.

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After lunch, as the rain stopped and the sky opened up, we went for a walk around the town and its surrounding forests. An early dinner and we hopped into bed, to be fully ready for some hiking the next day.

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29 thoughts on “The Valley of San Vito

  1. Very beautiful. The poppyseeds are most intriguing.

    When we lived in Southern Germany, we discovered a poppyseed filled pastry from Austria (Germknödel). Of course the Tyrolean’s eat this kind of treat as a part of meatless Friday lunch rather than desert. We just were just blown away with the headiness of the seeds and the ever-so-slight sweetness in the pastry.

    Thanks for sharing this.We might have to re-create the dish here in the U.S. Any commentary about the beet filling? Did you detect any particular seasoning?

    • Thanks! to my understanding the filling was made just of beetroot, although in some places they also add potato or turnips, it really depends on the texture you want to get out from them. With regard to the seasoning, poppy seeds, a little butter and some parmigiano !! Have a nice day! 😀

  2. What a picturesque location. Sounds like a lovely place to sample the local foods.

    The tortelli are very unusual. I’ve never seen colour on the outside like that. Have they been painted red or does the filling soak through the pasta?

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