On your second day tour I would recommend visiting the white rocky coast near the village of Porto Ferraio. This stretch of coast has many wonderful beaches, all characterized by snow white cliffs and candid gravel. The exposure on windy days channels the waves providing for a wild landscape.
After a light lunch move on to Porto Ferraio, Elba’s main town. Located on a peninsula partly enclosing a gulf, It is almost completely surrounded by sea.
The historic part of the town is dominated by three forts.It is set on hills and is full of steep slopes and rocky stairs.
Houses are colorful and bouganville flowers grow just about everywhere. Porto Ferraio is also known as being the town in which Napoleon was exiled the first time. The palace in which he lived now hosts a museum about the Napoleonic era.
Climbing to the highest fort is steep, but the view makes it all worth it.
Shopping in Elba can also be a very gratifying experience. Full of artisanal shops with local goodies, it is also known for its fragrance (acqua dell’elba) and many small clothes shops. The best village to go shopping is Capoliveri, where I treated myself to an outrageously pink dress in Via Gori 13.
Clearly I could not move on without talking to you about food and Elba. “Amandolo”, is an agriturismo located on the top of a mountain overlooking Cavo. It is surrounded by nothing but a mediterranean forest, has a restaurant and a few rooms. The thing to do is to arrive just before the sun set, as the views from up there are just spectacular.
The typical cuisine from Elba is made of poor ingredients such as beans, olive oil, local fish, and boar meat. Amandolo serves traditional Elban plates, local island wines and provides for a romantic atmosphere. You must book a table in advance as it may be difficult to get seated, they are famous for being the only slow food restaurant on the island. They offer a fix menu of first courses and give you a choice for the second course. Portions are very generous.
On this occasion we started with the house “antipasti” : a chick peas cream with caramelized crusty onion, red snapper fillet with herbs and sour onion, and a spicy hot cabbage salad.
Potato and carrot gnocchi with grouper, perfumed with thyme and wild fennel.
The dessert was an orange flavoured tiramisu.